Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
